Most of Uttarakhand's famous destinations reach peak tourist traffic between May and June. But those who visit between July and September discover a completely different version of the state, one that is quieter, greener, and in many ways more beautiful than at any other time of year. The Garhwal and Kumaon hills turn a vivid emerald, waterfalls that barely trickle in dry season transform into thundering cascades, and the morning mist that clings to the ridgelines creates a mood that …